The Bom Retiro neighborhood draws attention for its remarkable cultural diversity, which has been built by successive waves of immigrants—Italian, Portuguese, Greek, Jewish, Korean, and other nationalities—whose presence is clearly visible in the restaurants and shops lining its streets. This blend is further enriched by the strong community presence of Brazilians from the Northeast region (nordestinos).
As a major hub for wholesale stores, merchants from all over Brazil travel to Bom Retiro to shop. The neighborhood’s restaurants also attract people from all corners of São Paulo, especially on Saturdays. In contrast, on Sundays, few restaurants are open, and the streets empty out, creating a stark contrast with the busy atmosphere during the rest of the week.
In this post, I list the restaurants I typically frequent in Bom Retiro. The best days to explore the neighborhood are Saturdays and Friday evenings. If you can only visit on a Sunday, only Acrópoles and Tembi’u are open that day.
Acrópoles
Exuding an authentic Greek atmosphere since 1959, Acrópoles is the oldest Greek restaurant in São Paulo. Here, you select your dishes directly from the kitchen—it’s like a live menu display. Among the dishes I recommend trying are the moussaka, the octopus vinaigrette, the baklava, the roast lamb, and the Greek Alfa beer.
- Opening Hours: Every day from 7:30 AM to 6:00 PM.
- Address: Rua da Graça, 364
Falafel Malka
Falafel Malka is famous for serving the best falafel in São Paulo, and it truly lives up to its reputation. They make one of the best falafels I’ve eaten among all the places I’ve visited globally, including Israel and Egypt. I also highly recommend trying their hummus; it is simply delicious.
- Opening Hours:
- Monday to Friday: 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM
- Saturdays: 11:30 AM to 3:30 PM
- Address: Rua José Paulino, 345 – Loja 23 A
Shoshana
Shoshana is a restaurant specializing in Diaspora Jewish cuisine, serving dishes found in Jewish communities worldwide, from shakshuka to schnitzel, in addition to borscht, vareniki, latkes, shpondre, gefilte fish, and other dishes that traveled the world alongside Jewish migration. I tried the shakshuka and was impressed by their excellent in-house iced tea. On the last Friday of the month, they often organize a special Shabbat dinner.
- Opening Hours:
- Monday to Wednesday: 12:00 PM to 3:00 PM
- Thursdays and Fridays: 12:00 PM to 3:00 PM and 6:30 PM to 11:00 PM
- Saturdays: 12:00 PM to 4:00 PM and 6:30 PM to 11:00 PM
- Sundays: 12:00 PM to 4:00 PM
- Address: Rua Correia de Melo, 206/212
Tembi’u
Tembi’u is a Paraguayan restaurant where you can taste typical dishes from Paraguay, such as sopa paraguaya and chipa guasu, along with delicious empanadas, milanesa, and roast meat. Their milanesa and empanada are among the best I have ever had, made with wonderfully crafted dough. For Paraguayans passing through São Paulo, you can also buy the Pajarito and Kurupí brands of yerba mate here.
- Opening Hours:
- Monday to Friday: 7:00 AM to 8:00 PM
- Saturdays: 8:00 AM to 9:00 PM
- Sundays: 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM
- Address: Rua Guarani, 454
Casa Búlgara Bureka
Founded by Lona Levi in 1975, Casa Búlgara Bureka strongly resembles the pekaras (a mix of bakery and snack bar) found in the Balkans. It introduced the city of São Paulo to the bureka (often called burek in the Balkans), a savory puff pastry filled with meat, gorgonzola cheese, chocolate, and other ingredients. The house also serves Bulgarian cheese, Bulgarian yogurt, strudel, and fruit juices. I tried the bureka in the meat, apple, and chocolate flavors, along with the apple juice and Bulgarian yogurt.
- Opening Hours:
- Monday to Friday: 9:20 AM to 5:00 PM
- Saturdays: 9:20 AM to 3:00 PM
- Address: Rua Silva Pinto, 356
Whether you’re visiting Bom Retiro for shopping or simply exploring São Paulo, these restaurants will make your time in the neighborhood worthwhile, allowing you to discover a little piece of the city’s history through the gastronomy brought by different nationalities.
